HDH Wine

An Evening with Pierre Morey 

May 16, 2007
 
Blackbird Restaurant
619 W. Randolph St
Chicago IL 60601 

On May 16th, we were honored to host the irrepressible Msr. Pierre Morey at Chicago’s renown Blackbird restaurant.  Making his only wine-maker dinner appearance in the United States with Hart Davis Hart Wine Company, we and thirty-one of our Burgundy-loving clients were treated to a delicious four course meal, specially designed by chef Paul Kahan, to accompany Msr. Morey’s eight white burgundies.  One of the most experienced Burgundian wine-makers, Msr. Morey spoke to each wine and it was easy to understand why Clive Coates, M.W. states, in his book Côte d’Or that “Morey’s blood runs with wine.”  His passion for his craft was palpable and he generously shared his knowledge and insights with all in attendance.  

Pierre Morey has been known primarily for his work with the elite White Burgundy producer Domaine Leflaive.  He has been the régisseur (or manager) there since 1990 and has overseen the creation of some of that domaine’s most profound wines.  In addition, he runs his own Domaine Pierre Morey and he oversees the négociant label Morey-Blanc – both of which craft remarkable wines in their own right as we found out first hand that night.  Significantly, this last project began in 1990 when Msr. Morey’s métayer relationship with none other than the famous Domaines Comtes Lafon came to an end.  Given his position and experience in the burgundy wine-making pantheon, our expectations for the evening were very high and needless to say, we were not disappointed!

Below is the menu for the evening.  All of the wines poured that night were available for sale and a few of the selections have already sold out.  We have included a few staff tasting notes for some of the wines which particularly caught our attention and are still available for sale.  To place your own order, simply click here and you will be taken to our online retail inventory search page.  Type in the word “Morey” in the Keyword field and type in the vintage of the wine you wish to order and then choose your desired wine from the displayed list.  If you have any questions, do not hesitate to contact our knowledgeable Sales Associates:  312.482.9996 x1.

We wish to thank: Msr. Pierre Morey; Msr. Olivier Portet of Wilson-Daniels; and Chef Paul Kahan of Blackbird who helped make this evening a most memorable event.

A Wine-Maker Dinner
with Pierre Morey

First Course
Confit of Octopus with Fresh Hummus, Charred Ramps, Sesame Brittle and Chickpeas.

Accompanied by:
2003 Meursault, Charmes, Premier Cru (sold out)
2003 Corton-Charlemagne, Morey-Blanc
Pale straw color.  Bouquet of honey and toffee notes.  Pretty fleshy, ripe pineapple and tropical fruit flavors with a nice forward presence of toast—very easy acidity.  Drink now. - HDHWC
 

Second Course
Sauted Wild King Salmon with Local Asparagus, Candied Black Olives, Saffron Caviar and Cauliflower Almond Puree.

Accompanied by:
2002 Bâtard-Montrachet, Pierre Morey
Light straw color. Faint aromas of candy corn and peach. Medium weight with reserved green apple fruit and wood presence, plenty of mineral, and serious structure and acidity. Still really tight and youthful, will be a beauty with some age. - HDHWC
2003 Bâtard-Montrachet, Pierre Morey
 

Third Course
Crispy Veal Sweetbreads with Nicols Farm Baby Leeks, Fresh Green Almonds, Puffed Rice and Remoulade.

Accompanied by:
2001 Bâtard-Montrachet, Domaine Leflaive
2001 Bienvenues-Bâtard-Montrachet, Domaine Leflaive
2001 Chevalier-Montrachet, Domaine Leflaive

This was a wonderful flight, of which all wines paired superbly with the Sweetbreads and accompaniments, especially the almonds and remoulade

As I thought the Bâtard was the tightest of the bunch I felt it displayed quite a full, rounded body, showing good weight and wonderful aromatics, it just did not transfer to the palate, but what it did reveal was nice minerality with hints of nuts and spices and riper fruits and a long dry finish. This definitely needs a few more years time before it starts to strut is stuff!

The Bienvenues Batard was a bit richer and fuller bodied than the Batard, and was overall much more expressive revealing stone fruits mixed with terrific minerality, while a touch sweeter than the Batard.

The Chevalier stole the show in this flight, showing a racing acidity that complimented the terrific flavors of citrus fruits and stones with a terrific lasting finish. - HDHWC
 

Fourth Course
Braised Pork Belly with Pickeled Cherries, Lovage, Sugar Snap Peas and Chickpea Panisse.

Accompanied by:
2003 Montrachet, Morey-Blanc