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Côte de Beaune, 1er cru
$113.00 per Bottle
"The 2013 Beaune 1er Cru Grèves has a very expressive, quite floral bouquet that is more feminine and seductive than the Aigrots ’13 at the moment (although really they are just two different things.) The palate is very well balanced, extremely pure with sappy red berry fruit that exert a gentle grip in the mouth, while there is excellent weight on the effortless finish. Is there a Beaune Grèves better than this in 2013? Probably not. Utterly divine.
I always look forward to my visit to Michel Lafarge in the maze-like alleys of Volnay. In many ways it encapsulates Burgundy: small domaine, choice parcels, great history, a loyal following, dank and claustrophobic vaulted cellars thickly smothered with white mold like something out of a 1974 episode of Dr. Who, a bit disheveled in appearance…untidy perhaps, charismatic bordering upon legendary patriarch and wines so exquisite that they make you want to quit and just go home with that sweet nectar tingling in your mouth. Michel Lafarge himself greeted me at the domaine. He must be over 80years old now but he was still happy to discuss the vintage until his son Frédéric came along (doubtlessly delayed by what must be Burgundy’s slowest elevator.) Frédéric absolutely loves 2013 and described how it was a long growing season after a humid and wet spring, one where the grapes reached phenolic ripeness at low sugar levels. “We picked from 3 until 9 October,” he explained. “The last time that we had picked in October was in 1980. It is difficult to compare with other vintages. There is ‘big’ purity and it is easy to see the terroir of each of the vineyards. There was little botrytis. We chaptalized by around 0.5 degrees alcohol and the reds finished their malolactic between April and May, the whites by July and then we racked at the end of August.” The bad news of Lafarge fans is that there is just…wait for it…35% of the normal harvest. Yikes. If it is of any consolation a) the wines are so pure and elegant that you feel as if you are peering into the very vines, wines that leave you with a Cheshire cat grin perhaps with the exception of the underpar (on the day) Volnay Mitans '13 and b) the family has just acquired 2.5-hectares in Fleurie, which I look forward to tasting next year." Neal Martin, eRobertParker.com #216
Drink from: 2016-2030
"Firm and dense on the nose. Very splendid and gorgeous. Spreads right across palate in a minerally way. Very subtle and with the acidity not too pronounced." JancisRobinson.com
Drink from: 2022-2035